Ultra-thin models who have been barred from fashion shows in Milan and Madrid will be allowed on the catwalks during London Fashion Week, it emerged yesterday.
The British Fashion Council has defied the Government by resisting a ban on "size zero" women taking part in its shows.
Instead, it wants designers to use only "healthy models" aged 16 and over and is creating a task force to come up with new guidelines for the industry.
Doctors and women's groups are concerned that the use of underweight models encourages anorexia in the industry and sends a dangerous signal to girls.
Size Zero is the equivalent to a British size 4 in women's clothing — a 31.5in bust, a 23in waist and 34in hips. The average waist size of a British eight year old is 22 inches.
The controversy started in August when a Uraguayan model, Luisel Ramos, 22, died of heart failure after starving herself. In November, a 21-year-old Brazilian model, Ana Carolina Reston, died from anorexia.
Last year, Madrid Fashion Week banned underweight models. Milan followed suit with a code of conduct to stop anorexic-looking models being used in shows. The Spanish ban covers any models with a body mass index (BMI) of less than 18.
BMI is a person's weight in kilograms divided by their height in metres squared. A BMI below 18.5 is classed as underweight, a BMI over 25 is overweight and a BMI above 30 is obese.
The British Fashion Council which is funded by high street fashion chains and publishers, said: "As the organising body responsible for London Fashion Week, the BFC recognises its responsibility to help promote a healthy body image.
"We have asked designers, model agencies and image makers to respect this responsibility and to use only healthy models for their collections. Additionally, we recommend that only models aged 16 or over are used.
"We believe that regulation is neither desirable nor enforceable. What will make a difference is the commitment of the fashion industry to change attitudes through behaviour and education."
The BFC's sponsors include the Arcadia Group, M&S, New Look, Next, Tesco, Miss Selfridge, Debenhams and House of Fraser.
The statement from the British fashion industry follows a meeting between Tessa Jowell and Stuart Rose, the chief executive of Marks & Spencer, in which they discussed the use of underweight fashion models.
The refusal to introduce an outright ban will frustrate Miss Jowell, the Culture Secretary, who has been lobbying for the industry to set a clear example.
"The fashion industry is hugely powerful in shaping the attitudes of young women and their feelings about themselves," she said. "Teenage girls aspire to look like their role models. If their role models are healthy it will help inspire girls to be the same."
The French fashion federation is also refusing to ban ultra -thin models, claiming that its rules on their health are already tough enough.
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