A Model Explains Why Size 4 Is Too Big For The Fashion Industry

Katie Halchishick, a former Ford Model, just started a fantastic new modeling agency called Natural Model Management. Their motto is “healthy is the new skinny” and they’re focused on girls sizes 4-10 who don’t fit into either traditional straight or plus sized modeling. However, since most of the people we know are size 4 to size 10, we’re kind of baffled about why the industry wouldn’t typically be using girls in that range. Katie explains:

It’s an aspirational industry: The way we have it structured now a size 0 is marketing to someone who is a size 8 to a size 14. They get  marketed to by a really young size 0. And when I’m a size 10 I’m marketing to women who are really plus sized.

People don’t expect a “size 4″ to look like a size 4: When you’re working you’re talking about how you’re a size 14 when you’re clearly a 10. There are lies across the board about sizing.

Because there’s a notion that some girls are “naturally thin!”: It’s not true. They take girls who naturally have skinny frames and tell them to lose 10 pounds. Industry skinny is absurd. They take a thin person and force them beyond what their bodies are capable of.

Eating Disorders are glamorized: We go into high schools, and had one of models, Angela, who was really bulimic in high school talk. When she talks about it it’s genuine and honest. But in the straight size industry that’s glamorized too. If you’re straight sized, and then you switch over and do plus sizes, you can use that to do a book on how you struggled with bulimia.

Young women think skinny = perfect: Kids aren’t learning about nutrition in schools. Girls want to know how to lose weight so badly, and the schools don’t want to talk about it, because they’re worried they’ll develop a complex. I’m pretty sure we’re past that point… We surveyed this high school because we wanted to know what high school girls are really thinking, and asked them what they thought was fat, if they tried starving themselves, and what size they would be perfect at. What we got back was really sad. They think what makes a girl beautiful is “skinny with big boobs perfect hair perfect make-up”. What people think is fat is “when your legs are kind of big” “love handles” all specific body parts. Everyone said 0, 1 or 2 is the perfect size. 95% admitted to skipping meals or throwing up foods, and then getting frustrated because they said it doesn’t work. The number one wish for all teenage girls is to be thinner, and there need to be models to show them to wish for more. We’re not going to blow smoke up people’s asses and say “just look in the mirror and love yourself!” That doesn’t work. But we have to figure out what does work and what can change in our own outlooks. We can fight and put up battle-stands with the industry, but ultimately, is it the fashion industry’s responsibility for how we’re feeling about ourselves? We have to start changing this thought process in ourselves. If we have a healthier mentality then there are going to be changes, because the same advertising won’t work. We’re the only ones who can change that.

Fashion leaders refuse to ban size zero models

By David Derbyshire, Consumer Affairs Editor

12:01AM GMT 26 Jan 2007

Ultra-thin models who have been barred from fashion shows in Milan and Madrid will be allowed on the catwalks during London Fashion Week, it emerged yesterday.

The British Fashion Council has defied the Government by resisting a ban on "size zero" women taking part in its shows. 

Instead, it wants designers to use only "healthy models" aged 16 and over and is creating a task force to come up with new guidelines for the industry.
Doctors and women's groups are concerned that the use of underweight models encourages anorexia in the industry and sends a dangerous signal to girls.

Size Zero is the equivalent to a British size 4 in women's clothing — a 31.5in bust, a 23in waist and 34in hips. The average waist size of a British eight year old is 22 inches.

The controversy started in August when a Uraguayan model, Luisel Ramos, 22, died of heart failure after starving herself. In November, a 21-year-old Brazilian model, Ana Carolina Reston, died from anorexia.

Last year, Madrid Fashion Week banned underweight models. Milan followed suit with a code of conduct to stop anorexic-looking models being used in shows. The Spanish ban covers any models with a body mass index (BMI) of less than 18.

BMI is a person's weight in kilograms divided by their height in metres squared. A BMI below 18.5 is classed as underweight, a BMI over 25 is overweight and a BMI above 30 is obese.

The British Fashion Council which is funded by high street fashion chains and publishers, said: "As the organising body responsible for London Fashion Week, the BFC recognises its responsibility to help promote a healthy body image.

"We have asked designers, model agencies and image makers to respect this responsibility and to use only healthy models for their collections. Additionally, we recommend that only models aged 16 or over are used.

"We believe that regulation is neither desirable nor enforceable. What will make a difference is the commitment of the fashion industry to change attitudes through behaviour and education."

The BFC's sponsors include the Arcadia Group, M&S, New Look, Next, Tesco, Miss Selfridge, Debenhams and House of Fraser.

The statement from the British fashion industry follows a meeting between Tessa Jowell and Stuart Rose, the chief executive of Marks & Spencer, in which they discussed the use of underweight fashion models.

The refusal to introduce an outright ban will frustrate Miss Jowell, the Culture Secretary, who has been lobbying for the industry to set a clear example.

"The fashion industry is hugely powerful in shaping the attitudes of young women and their feelings about themselves," she said. "Teenage girls aspire to look like their role models. If their role models are healthy it will help inspire girls to be the same."

The French fashion federation is also refusing to ban ultra -thin models, claiming that its rules on their health are already tough enough.

Broadcast

VIDEOS

Truth About Size Zero

Living With Size Zero

Super Skinny Me

A Size Zero Dress Does Not Equal Success

When Lady Gaga recently gained 25 pounds, the internet went crazy posting the "shocking" photos, along with derogatory comments and even speculating as to whether she may have packed on the pounds as a publicity stunt. Really? Who does that? In response to all the negative commentary, Gaga attributed the weight gain to simply eating too much pasta at her father's restaurant. But she also revealed that she has been suffering from eating disorders since she was 15.

Christina Aguilera was also in the news recently when she addressed her weight gain over the past year. She said that she had simply grown tired of constantly struggling to be super skinny in order to please record executives. She said that throughout her career, executives at her record label pressured her to remain thin and even went so far as to stage a weight intervention, but this time she told them, "I'm fat. Deal with it." She went on to say, "They need a reminder sometimes that I don't belong to them. It's my body."

Of course, eating disorders and the societal pressures to be thin are nothing new. And they are nothing to trivialize. They are painful for the girl or woman who is going through them, as well as their families. Even my good friend Katie Couric recently revealed that she, too, had suffered from bulimia in her teens and twenties as she strived for physical perfection. These revelations -- and conversations -- are a good thing. They help us know that, however down we may feel about our bodies at different times in our lives, there are many women we hold as role models who have been there, too. Lady Gaga, who is ahead of the pack in so many ways, sent a very positive message to her legions of fans -- to accept their bodies regardless of weight, scars or any other perceived "imperfections."

This positive reinforcement is much needed. Young women -- and some older ones as well -- can't help but feel insecure as they leaf through the fashion magazines' portrayal of young women with unattainable, airbrushed imagery that depicts an entirely unrealistic physical ideal. And even though we should know better by now, many of us are still comparing ourselves to that ideal.

So we thought our best response to the recent public scoldings these famous women are getting for putting on a few pounds is to remind us all that there are images of strength and success and beauty around us that are not airbrushed. And don't ask to be.

We all know that carrying too much weight can cause serious health problems. Obesity can lead to diseases that can threaten our lives. But that needn't force us to hold ourselves to one ideal. And, hey, who gets to decide what's beautiful? So let's remind ourselves and our daughters that achievement, talent and strength are beautiful in themselves. And that, by the way, physical beauty comes in a whole lot of sizes.

Inflaming the size zero debate: Stony-faced Samantha Cameron is unimpressed with skeletal model at London Fashion Week

She is usually a passionate follower of fashion.

However, in a coveted front-row seat at London Fashion Week, Samantha Cameron appeared distinctly unenthusiastic about what she saw yesterday.

The Prime Minister's wife stayed sombre and stony-faced as extremely thin models strutted up and down the catwalk in designs from luxury label Erdem.

Unenthusiastic: Samantha Cameron watches one of the models on the catwalk for Erdem yesterday

Some of the women – who will no doubt stoke the size zero debate – hardly filled the floor-length gowns they were supposed to be showing off.

But Mrs Cameron herself attracted admiring glances in her chic Osman beige shirt-jacket, stylish Whistles shirt, cropped trousers and favourite Zara shoes.

 

The 39-year-old opened London Fashion Week on Friday in her first appearance as the event's ambassador. She explained how she was 'passionate about fashion' and how it 'makes people feel'.

But she appeared to be less passionate about the choice of models made by Erdem, a label which has been worn by Glee actress Lea Michele and editor of U.S. Vogue Anna Wintour.

Weighty issue: Chloe Memisevic barely filled out the floor-length gown as she walked the runway

Backward step? Chloe's painfully thin arms were on display as the size zero debate is reignited

Charities offering support for eating disorders also described the selection of very thin models as 'disappointing'.

Susan Ringwood, chief executive of eating disorder charity Beat, said: 'There's a backwards step here, and it's a shame. We had hoped that the tide had turned, so this is a disappointing move.

'Young people are especially interested in fashion and want to take the lead it gives. If we're back to the old days of seeing one size on the catwalk, it is regrettable.'

Unrealistic expectations: The Mental Health Foundation believe using such thin models on the catwalk is irresponsible and dangerous

Simon Lawton-Smith from the Mental Health Foundation, which offers advice to sufferers of eating disorders, called the choice 'irresponsible and dangerous'.

He added: 'The idealising of underweight models can set unrealistic expectations.

'A perceived failure to meet these expectations can lead to low self-esteem, anxiety and serious mental health problems such as depression.

'These in turn can increase the likelihood of developing an eating disorder.'

Erdem failed to comment.

Tribute: Samantha Cameron made a touching speech at the press preview of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, praising the designer

The Prime Minister's wife also had her sombre face on this morning at a press preview of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - an upcoming exhibition of the late designer's work.

The exhibition celebrates the work of one of the UK's most famous designers who tragically committed suicide last year.

Samantha Cameron made a touching speech at the launch, praising the designer.

The collection opens at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York on May 4, but the preview took place as part of fashion week at the Ritz Hotel in central London.

Topshop Reignites the ‘Size Zero Debate’

This image, which appeared on the front page of Topshop’s website and features 18-year old model Codie Young, has been taken down as a result of complaints that it portrays a “painfully thin” girl, someone who looks ill and should not be used on a page visited by hundreds of thousands of young, impressionable females every day as it could “encourage Anorexia”.

Tut tut to Topshop or whichever editor selected this specific shot, which a spokesperson for the store admitted: “accentuated Codie’s proportions making her head look bigger and neck longer in proportion to her body.”

Kudos, however, for the way they responded to allegations of being irresponsible and to blame for girls developing or relapsing back into Eating Disorders.

Last night, Topshop replaced the image – not with a healthier-looking or even ‘curvy’ model – but with a different image of the same model from the same set of photographs.

Now, unless the model in question managed to shovel enough pies down her whilst changing outfits during the shoot, the compromise shot shows the same girl, at the same weight, the same size, the same teeny boobs and waist and as ever, the same blank expression.

Quite cleverly, Topshop reacted to complaints from worried parents and so-called professionals. By refusing to scrap the lookbook of Codie Young – who they say (and I believe) is naturally skinny due to having very tall, lean parents – they are making an important point: that lighting, camera angles, the model’s pose and the sample size in comparison to the model’s size all play a staggering part in accentuating the overall ‘look’. Trickery or accentuation or somewhere in between, it really is more than bones in a bag. We just love to moan.

I am not condoning the use of this image – there is no denying that she looks emaciated – but it aggravates me how quick we are to show our collective fury when we see a skinny model in a photoshoot or a twig-legged zombie on the runway at Erdem. Get over it. I am all for variety and believe that models should come in all shapes and sizes, but if we seriously think there will come a day when we don’t see 6ft beanpoles modelling the season’s new arrivals, we’re going to be bitterly disappointed.

What maddens me further is that people see this girl and immediately jump to the conclusion that she MUST be anorexic and this WILL encourage girls who see her tiny waist and gangly arms and think, ‘Ooh, she looks good, I think I’ll be anorexic so I can also look prepubescent. Prepubescent is really hot right now.’ My guess is that the people who follow such thought patterns wouldn’t know anorexia if it slapped them in the face.

I find it insulting that so many people automatically associate anorexia with vanity; a quest to look perfect, a selfish desire to appear impossibly thin like the models that bombard us with all their gorgeousness and gorgeosity.

It simply is not the case that images of underweight models encourage or cause Eating Disorders. The complexities would overwhelm anyone who has ever told a skinny girl in the street that she needs a burger. No time for that now.

Clearly, shots like this one are not helpful in the slightest to people either suffering with or recovering from an Eating Disorder, but as I touched upon earlier, they are never going to disappear; they will never all be banned.

We need to stop being so wrapped up in and worried about the negative impact that the fashion world could have on our hoards of young, vulnerable ladies. Instead, we need to realise (as most recovered anorexics I know have learnt to) that that is an entirely different world. What we see in magazines is polished to the maximum and IS NOT REAL. More than that, we need to stop wasting our time being anal about how harmful this picture or that phrase might be and just learn to hold our own heads up and have the confidence to just not let it bother us.

What a body! Plus-size model Robyn Lawley shows off her famous curves in new swimwear shoot

Winter is slowly encroaching on the U.S., but model Robyn Lawley has made one last stand for summer in a stunning new swimwear shoot.

The 23-year-old size 12 (UK size 16) model took to the Cook Islands’ Aitutaki Lagoon to model printed bikinis for Cosmopolitan Australia’s November issue. 

After landing a major contract as the first 'plus-size' model for Ralph Lauren last month, the 6ft 2in beauty shows off her now famous curves, defying ideals that thinness equals beauty

Recently those curves have also been featured on the cover of Vogue Italia, French Elle and as the face of Boux Avenue lingerie.

And in photographer Steven Chee’s sun-drenched images for Cosmopolitan, Miss Lawley is refreshingly portrayed as an everyday model - the words 'swimwear for plus-size girls' nowhere to be seen on the magazine's pages.

Cosmopolitan's Fashion Director, Nicole Adolphe, said: 'Robyn totally embodies what a real woman is, and our readers adore her - so I HAD to shoot her for our special swim issue. And what a shoot, she simply oozes sexuality and is the ultimate Cosmo girl.'

Despite being profiled on other magazine covers with captions that read 'The model who likes her food,' the Australian-born model says she is slowly making size irrelevant. 

'I've given up caring what people think,' she told People magazine recently.

'I tell tall girls, being tall and curvy is the double whammy! But confidence is really sexy. I love my shape. I love my body. I've come a long way.'

Twenty years ago the average fashion model weighed eight per cent less than the average woman; today, she weighs 23per cent less. 

Aussie style: Miss Lawley took to the Cook Islands¿ Aitutaki Lagoon for Cosmopolitan Australia¿s November issue

'I'm big boned,' she said on Good Morning America last month.

'I used to be told to lose weight and exercise all the time. I got a huge amount of pressure to diet. And my body, it was such a battle for me to do that because I'm tall and I'm broad. I really struggled to maintain that size.'

Despite the fact that 50per cent of women wear a size 14 or larger, most designers only cater to sizes 14 or smaller, and Miss Lawlely hopes to be the catalyst to change that.

She said: 'I genuinely want companies to take notice and start being more realistic about who their customer really is. I hope to keep breaking down those barriers.'